The misfires in the Browning BL-22 were caused by a locking plate that was no longer within the correct dimensions. This issue is well documented on this website.
At one point, I 3D printed a few test plates, which made it easy to measure and determine the proper dimensions needed to eliminate the excess play in the bolt.
You can print these plates yourself and fine-tune their size until the gap between the barrel and the bolt is completely eliminated.
That makes total sense, doesn’t it? Apparently, for one nation and some other small country on this boulder we live on, it does.
So I needed a small mounting bolt for my american made, weapon. Silly me assumed that this was standard thread that everyone is using, but no. Eventually, after a lot of measuring, I figured out that the cut of the thread was Whitworth G40-1/8 and the estimated width of the bolt was 4,20mm and the length was 3,18mm. After a long search, I now know that i need to search for the following bolt:
#8-40 x 1/8
#8 means that the gauge is 0.164 in. or 4.17 mm
40 stands for the threads per inch, in this case classified as “fine”.
TPI 40 = 0,025″ Pitch in Inches or 0,635 Pitch in Millimeter.
1/8 stands for the length of the bolt. (Actual size 0.1255″ or 3.1877mm)
So I just ordered #8-40 x 1/4 because I need longer bolts. And I was unable to find them here in The Netherlands. So AliExpress came to the rescue!
First: You cannot reset it, you will have to get yourself a used head unit to fix it. Second: The anti-theft protection needs to be cleared at a garage who can enter the VIN number in the head unit. Only then will the constant beeping stop. There are tools available for this which I have not tested. I am refering to this video and he seems to be using this tool [1] [2] and software for it. Third: The new head unit is from a 2018 model C3 and offers functions that this 2017 model does not support. For example, the new unit offers a start-stop function but the original did not. This will then not add this function magically to your car.
Warning:
While this is a super easy job to do, you will do it at your own risk. Think before applying force. Think before doing something permanently.
Parts required:
A similar or compatible head unit (navigation computer)
My old head unit shows the following data on the label:
Remove the two torx 20 screws that are facing you. One on the left, one on the right.
Carefully pull the unit out. You have some slack in the wires, so you can guide them out with your fingers. Do not pull too hard!
Visualise which color plug goes where. The top two ones, blue and orange have a purple line on them. Under those two, you find a blue one. Check in which of the two connectors it is connected to. Next to it is a green one and under that is a black one. And next to the black plug is a white one.
Start with the blue/purple, then orange, then blue, then green, then black and lastly the white one.
Remember in which port the blue plug was plugged into.
Finally, you see a big plug that is held in place by a retainer. Carefully undo the retainer by turning it sideways and take the plug out.
That’s it, now do the thing in reverse with the new head unit.
Next, you need to program the VIN from your car into the radio or it will keep on beeping. It will not end until this is done.
The inside of the action of a browning bl22 rifle. The insert can be seen in the “roof” of the action.
It is the second time that I have to fix this issue where the trigger fails to release the hammer.
Symptom: The lever is not closing completely and then you cannot pull the trigger.
Cause: There is a small piece of steel in the “roof” of the action that has come loose and slides forward.
Fix: Fix the steel insert in its place, now with a much stronger adhesive. I used Loctite 648 this time.
Okay, first you need to make everything super clean and free of grease. Then you sand the slot with some fine sanding paper first as another cleaning step and then you use a coarser sanding paper to roughen up the surface.
Look at how nice and clean that has become 🙂
Next, clean the insert thoroughly and use fine sanding paper first, then coarser paper.
The cleaned insert.
I chose for a stronger loctite this time, because I want to wait with more intrusive ways to affix this part. Have I noted that this part should never have come out in the first place? It’s not even noted in any parts list…
Maybe this grade of Loctite is good enough. If not, then we go back to the drawing board.
There, all fitted together and now I will give it plenty time to dry and cure. Was briefly pondering about heating it up, but that’s a bit of a weird thing to do with glue as you can also often use heat to undo glued together parts.
Will it stick?
I’ll go try it out tomorrow with some beefy ammo. I bought CCI EX Stingers that will yeet the nope with 1640 feet per second. If that breaks the glue bond, I’ll have to figure out another way to affix the insert.
In order to get a clear image, rotate the lens 0.625 turns left, presuming that the white line that has been drawn on the lens case starts at the bottom.
Today I learned that the following command creates a test capture with the raspberry pi camera:
libcamera-still -o test.jpg
The output from the commandWe have an image!
And by golly, it works! So yet again some progress has been made. Somewhat worry that it is blurred, so let me make another one with the lights on:
Oh no, this is way too blurry
Well heck. That’s not good. I have still not been ably to install python3-picamera3. Would that be the issue? Weird though. Let’s do another test with a mug at 10 cm distance:
Well, that doesn’t look good…
One more test then at 20 cm:
20 cm has failed too.
Sooo. Not sure what’s going on here, but at least the camera works. 😀
The progress is slow, but steady. Everything is now assembled and ready to go. Now it is time to find the best opensource dashcam software. I have now hooked it up to the local network so I can poke it everywhere I want.
